What audio system do you have, or plan on getting?

[aligreto]

I do, not a whole lot, but some jazz, blues and classical (at one time I transferred it all to CD-Rs but some of those, don't know how man y, no longer play).  It is in storage so I will need to go through the boxes/crates and retrieve some favorites.  But I am also buying new 180 gram vinyl of some classics, like Kind of Blue and a few others.  And some artists are releasing their new recordings in vinyl.  I just ordered Bill Frisell's latest, Valentine. 

I am looking forward to listening once I have all the components set up and contributing to the vinyl thread here.

That's great and wonderful to read. Enjoy the journey and have a little love and patience when setting up the old analogue system; it will reward you well 

[SurprisedByBeauty]

I just ordered Bill Frisell's latest, Valentine. 

I am looking forward to listening once I have all the components set up and contributing to the vinyl thread here.

Here's to Bill Frisell!; I'm not quite *yet* ready for Vinyl again, but I'm always ready for Frisell -- and he'd be someone I'd be willing to bring out the old DUAL again and revive it. :-)

[André Le Nôtre]

Question about cables. In my main system, I have mixture of Audioquest, Cardas, and MIT, but I am looking for something cost-effective (cheaper) for my desktop/PC system.

For this I have a pair of AudioEngine A2+ powered speakers, which have good quality five-way binding posts. I recently bought a new PC, which greatly improved my sound quality. I am looking at upgrading my cables from the cheapo plastic-coated copper wire that came with the speakers.

I need probably a 1.5M pair, with good EMI, RFI shielding. I am likely to go with spade lugs, but banana plugs are an option too. (Any differences in sound quality?) The low-end Audioquest in this range start at about 150$, but I wonder whether this is overkill for 250$ speakers. I will also likely add the subwoofer as well.

Any suggestions for this application? I don't think everything necessarily needs to be audiophile approved, but I know that quality cable and terminations are not cheap. What brands to you prefer?   

[Daverz]

Question about cables. In my main system, I have mixture of Audioquest, Cardas, and MIT, but I am looking for something cost-effective (cheaper) for my desktop/PC system.

The wire won't make a difference.  I suggest spending the money on something else.

[Holden]

Question about cables. In my main system, I have mixture of Audioquest, Cardas, and MIT, but I am looking for something cost-effective (cheaper) for my desktop/PC system.

For this I have a pair of AudioEngine A2+ powered speakers, which have good quality five-way binding posts. I recently bought a new PC, which greatly improved my sound quality. I am looking at upgrading my cables from the cheapo plastic-coated copper wire that came with the speakers.

I need probably a 1.5M pair, with good EMI, RFI shielding. I am likely to go with spade lugs, but banana plugs are an option too. (Any differences in sound quality?) The low-end Audioquest in this range start at about 150$, but I wonder whether this is overkill for 250$ speakers. I will also likely add the subwoofer as well.

Any suggestions for this application? I don't think everything necessarily needs to be audiophile approved, but I know that quality cable and terminations are not cheap. What brands to you prefer?

For speakers this size this is definitely overkill - I'd be amazed if you could actually hear a difference worth 60% of the cost of the speakers. In fact you will probably hear no difference at all.

The subs are a really good idea. The A2+ has it's own TI DAC but might benefit from a better separate model. This article may be useful

theabsolutesound.com/articles/audioengine-a2-desktop-speakers-and-d3-dac/

[André Le Nôtre]

Thanks, gents. The reason I ask about the cables is that I have a lot of other wires and an ATT 1 gigabit Fiber Gateway near the speakers. Recently, I had a lot of issues with audio interference/noise until I moved the powered speaker away from the gateway. I swapped the two speakers on my computer desk, and the noise is gone (passive speaker now next to gateway), but now I need to find a way to switch L <-> R channels in Windows 10!

Powered speaker does not like being next to the gateway, although the ATT guy told me there would be no issues with wi-fi/gateway in this configuration. Indeed we have excellent wi-fi now (vastly better than that Charter cable garbage).

I had intermittent interference/noise with the A2+s prior to this new setup, but they always seemed to stay below my threshold of annoyance. In any case, I am not thinking that expensive wire will transport me to audio nirvana--I think even the greatest speakers in the world are mediocre from a distance of three feet!--I just want something shielded with good connectors. But again, you're right 60% of the speaker price is nuts, esp. for a desktop system.

[Holden]

Thanks, gents. The reason I ask about the cables is that I have a lot of other wires and an ATT 1 gigabit Fiber Gateway near the speakers. Recently, I had a lot of issues with audio interference/noise until I moved the powered speaker away from the gateway. I swapped the two speakers on my computer desk, and the noise is gone (passive speaker now next to gateway), but now I need to find a way to switch L <-> R channels in Windows 10!

Powered speaker does not like being next to the gateway, although the ATT guy told me there would be no issues with wi-fi/gateway in this configuration. Indeed we have excellent wi-fi now (vastly better than that Charter cable garbage).

I had intermittent interference/noise with the A2+s prior to this new setup, but they always seemed to stay below my threshold of annoyance. In any case, I am not thinking that expensive wire will transport me to audio nirvana--I think even the greatest speakers in the world are mediocre from a distance of three feet!--I just want something shielded with good connectors. But again, you're right 60% of the speaker price is nuts, esp. for a desktop system.

A2+s are wireless I believe so I'd think they have their own desktop app. If so, can channel reversal be done via the Audioengine app?

[André Le Nôtre]

I guess they have bluetooth capability, but I have 'em wired up. Speaker cables and 3.5 mm plug. I will check into the app. Thanks.

Also, while I have you on the line, can I ask what software you use for screencast lectures? I need something that will allow me easy editing of audio alongside video (slides) so that they are sync-ed up. I also need export to MP4. I have been using Camtasia, but I am increasingly annoyed by the many bugs in this program--that many others have noted! Thanks!

[Holden]

We use Screencast-O-Matic here at the school and it works well.

[Fëanor]

In the mail for me at the moment is a VTA Amplifier Purfi 1ET400A module-based stereo amp with a Hypex buffer and power supply.  This is the red-hot latest class D amplifier option.

Purfi 1ET400A-based amp are also available from Nord, Apollon, March Audio, Audiophonics, and probably some other providers.  I choose VTV Amplifier as my source because it was (a) the least expensive and (b) located relatively short distance away in Ohio from my home in southwestern Ontario.

[Mandryka]

In the mail for me at the moment is a VTA Amplifier Purfi 1ET400A module-based stereo amp with a Hypex buffer and power supply.  This is the red-hot latest class D amplifier option.

Purfi 1ET400A-based amp are also available from Nord, Apollon, March Audio, Audiophonics, and probably some other providers.  I choose VTV Amplifier as my source because it was (a) the least expensive and (b) located relatively short distance away in Ohio from my home in southwestern Ontario.

When you get it, will you post to say whether it runs hot? It's interesting how class D has started to encroach on the serious audio market, not so long ago they were just fit for subwoofers. One potential problem for expensive ones is serviceability - if the manufacturer goes bust or won't provide parts.

[Holden]

Which raises a point for me. What's better - Class A or Class D? What's the difference between them? I might have to replace my venerable McLaren A150B soon and am looking at something good but affordable.

NB: My Burson Play DAC/Amp is pure class A and sounds amazing because it has the power to drive virtually any headphone without sounding stressed.

[Mandryka]

Which raises a point for me. What's better - Class A or Class D? What's the difference between them? I might have to replace my venerable McLaren A150B soon and am looking at something good but affordable.

Until recently Class D were considered grunt amps, fit only for providing some welly to subwoofers and the lowerst fi active speakers but with no refinement or truthfulness in the midrange and treble. Things have changed though and now some top companies are offering Class D amplification. Whatever it sounds like, you need to remember that serviceability may be a problem as I said above, and price is also a factor. If you buy a class D amp with poor components, designed by accountants rather than audio engineers, it may well have a short life expectancy.  I don't have any class D amps, at some point I will though, because I want to investigate active speakers.

Class A runs hot and is not at all green. Class A is expensive not least because the components are expensive. But designers tell me that it's much easier to design an excellent class A amp than an excellent class A B amp. The best transistor amp I have ever owned is pure class A.

One option to consider is "impure class A" that's to say, Class A for the first watt or two and then class B. I have one of those and I'm glad to have it.

[The new erato]

Better in what regard? Electricity bill will certainly be better with class D, and if you need high power output I think this rules out class A unless you are prepared to pay a rather hefty price. Class A requires significantly more space and is less user friendly than most class D systems. If you ignore all that and have the money, I should think most audiophiles would prefer class A. I've heard som Devialets that have impressed me, class D certainly arent't second grade soundwise any more. The Japanese SPEC class D amps are very well regarded by some discerninng audiophiles I know.

Size and usability are key priorities of mine, and the two class D suppliers above would be high on my list if I were to replace any amps I own (A Hegel 200 A/B system in the living room and a mixed system with a CJ MF 2500 A class A/B in the listening room). Never had any regrets with the sound of those either, the Hegel supporting a Sonus Faber Ellipsa, and the CJ supporting alternatively a Dali Euphonia MS 5 and a Vienna Beethoven set in the listening room.

[Fëanor]

In the mail for me at the moment is a VTA Amplifier Purfi 1ET400A module-based stereo amp with a Hypex buffer and power supply.  This is the red-hot latest class D amplifier option.

Purfi 1ET400A-based amp are also available from Nord, Apollon, March Audio, Audiophonics, and probably some other providers.  I choose VTV Amplifier as my source because it was (a) the least expensive and (b) located relatively short distance away in Ohio from my home in southwestern Ontario.

When you get it, will you post to say whether it runs hot? It's interesting how class D has started to encroach on the serious audio market, not so long ago they were just fit for subwoofers. One potential problem for expensive ones is serviceability - if the manufacturer goes bust or won't provide parts.

Well I've received the VTV/Purifi amp and can answer your question, Mandryka.  The Purifi runs pretty much stone cold so I'd say you could safely put it in pretty much any enclosed space.

This Purifi  epitomized the "accurate" amp.  It is super high definition.  Truly, I've never heard violins sound more lifelike, and for that matter Jazz cymbals sound realistic, crystalline brilliance than I've heard before.  On the downside, maybe, it adds no warm and does nothing to mitigate the sound of all-to-common over-bright or otherwise rough recordings.

The long term repair prospects are unclear once the original modules are no longer available.  Of course, the power supplies are replaceable, and there are even now pin-compatible replacements for the buffer modules.

[Kontrapunctus]

DALI Epicon 2 speakers
SVS SB13 Ultra sub
McIntosh MA9000 integrated amp
Esoteric K-03 SACD player
VPI Prime Signature turntable/Ortofon Cadenza Bronze cartridge
Sennheiser HD800s, MrSpeaker Aeon headphones
Oppo 205 Blu-ray player
Macbook Pro >Audirvana>DAC in McIntosh

[Mandryka]

When you get it, will you post to say whether it runs hot? It's interesting how class D has started to encroach on the serious audio market, not so long ago they were just fit for subwoofers. One potential problem for expensive ones is serviceability - if the manufacturer goes bust or won't provide parts.


Well I've received the VTV/Purifi amp and can answer your question, Mandryka.  The Purifi runs pretty much stone cold so I'd say you could safely put it in pretty much any enclosed space.

This Purifi  epitomized the "accurate" amp.  It is super high definition.  Truly, I've never heard violins sound more lifelike, and for that matter Jazz cymbals sound realistic, crystalline brilliance than I've heard before.  On the downside, maybe, it adds no warm and does nothing to mitigate the sound of all-to-common over-bright or otherwise rough recordings.

The long term repair prospects are unclear once the original modules are no longer available.  Of course, the power supplies are replaceable, and there are even now pin-compatible replacements for the buffer modules.

Interesting. Post again please in a couple of months time. The reason I say this is that someone I know with some Class D said to me recently that initially he was impressed with their brilliance  and sense of revealing all the music. But after a  few months he started to find the whole experience tiring. The problem could have been the way the amp was reacting to his speakers, which were a large load (electrostatics.)

[Irons]

DALI Epicon 2 speakers
SVS SB13 Ultra sub
McIntosh MA9000 integrated amp
Esoteric K-03 SACD player
VPI Prime Signature turntable/Ortofon Cadenza Bronze cartridge
Sennheiser HD800s, MrSpeaker Aeon headphones
Oppo 205 Blu-ray player
Macbook Pro >Audirvana>DAC in McIntosh

Very nice.

[Fëanor]

When you get it, will you post to say whether it runs hot? It's interesting how class D has started to encroach on the serious audio market, not so long ago they were just fit for subwoofers. One potential problem for expensive ones is serviceability - if the manufacturer goes bust or won't provide parts.

Well I've received the VTV/Purifi amp and can answer your question, Mandryka.  The Purifi runs pretty much stone cold so I'd say you could safely put it in pretty much any enclosed space.

This Purifi  epitomized the "accurate" amp.  It is super high definition.  Truly, I've never heard violins sound more lifelike, and for that matter Jazz cymbals sound realistic, crystalline brilliance than I've heard before.  On the downside, maybe, it adds no warm and does nothing to mitigate the sound of all-to-common over-bright or otherwise rough recordings.

The long term repair prospects are unclear once the original modules are no longer available.  Of course, the power supplies are replaceable, and there are even now pin-compatible replacements for the buffer modules.

Interesting. Post again please in a couple of months time. The reason I say this is that someone I know with some Class D said to me recently that initially he was impressed with their brilliance  and sense of revealing all the music. But after a  few months he started to find the whole experience tiring. The problem could have been the way the amp was reacting to his speakers, which were a large load (electrostatics.)

I know an individual on another forum who runs Sound Lab U-1PX electrostatics which are a highly reactive load.  He tried a Hypex NC502MP amp with them and found they didn't work well, especially in the treble.  So that might explain your acquaintance's experience.  However he is please with it in another system with dynamic driver speakers.  For my part, my speakers, Zaph Audio ZRT's are an extremely benign, non-reactive 8 ohm load.

However a certain brilliance is, (based on reports from many audiophiles), a characteristic of very low distortion amplifiers.  Many high-end amps are designed to allow some 2nd and/or 3rd order harmonic distortion, usually while trying to minimized higher-order distortion.  This was true of the Pass Labs X150.5 amp I was using 'till recently -- it remains to be seen how well I adapt to the difference sound.  I'll let you know.

[Harry]

Soon a Esoteric CD player will arrive, for testing, and if I like it buy. I would like to invite comments, negative or positive.

esoteric K-05 XS.

Thank you.