What audio system do you have, or plan on getting?

[petrarch]

No, I haven't heard the XA.5's, (nor had I heard the X150.5 before mine arrived).

Your observations sound about right.  Here's what an acquaintance said about the XA30.5 vs. X150.5:

- mids and treble a bit more detailed, more overtones in high frequencies
- mids more prominent
- bass is more fleshed out, rounder, but less "clean" and controlled than X150.5
- dynamic attack is a bit attenuated in comparison
- because of difference in mids prominence, soundstage seems a tiny bit more forward of speakers.

I chose the X150.A because (a) I could get a used one a bit cheaper, and (b) its lower power consumption and heat.

Indeed, I can see price and power consumption and heat being factors; the XAs are all class A throughout the power range (if I recall correctly), which translates to high values in each of those categories. But the sound, ah the sound...

I have found my original informal review of the audition I mentioned (at the time I was shopping for a replacement to my Vantages and was already zeroing in on Analysis Audio): http://www.martinloganowners.com/forum/showthread.php?5083-Listened-to-Analysis-Audio-Omega

[Bogey]

Would be cool....

[SonicMan46]

Would be cool....

 

Hey Bill - assume that you're talking about the girl?    Reminds me of George Jones' Corvette Song - Dave

[Fëanor]

Indeed, I can see price and power consumption and heat being factors [Pass Labs X150.5 vs. XA30.5]; the XAs are all class A throughout the power range (if I recall correctly), which translates to high values in each of those categories. But the sound, ah the sound...

I have found my original informal review of the audition I mentioned (at the time I was shopping for a replacement to my Vantages and was already zeroing in on Analysis Audio): http://www.martinloganowners.com/forum/showthread.php?5083-Listened-to-Analysis-Audio-Omega

There are two polar preferences in the audiophile domain: (A) for the warmer, "harmonically rich", full-bodied, "organic", vs. (B) for the brighter, tighter, more resolved, more dynamic.  Both sides insist that their particular preference is "more accurate", if not necessarily to the recording, then to their recollection of "live performance".  Of course, there are audiophiles in the middle who like a balance of these qualities.

Personally I'm a bit inclined to the latter school.  I like lots transparency and air and to a some small degree I'am willing to trade if for sweetness and smoothness.  Unfortunately I have a pretty limited budget for hi-fi equipment; I'm retired and very dime I spend on hi-fi contributes to potential hunger a few year down the road.  The Pass Labs X150.5 is by a considerable margin the best amplifier I've owned.  It's an amp the minimizes the trade-offs between the (A) and (B) schools, but favors the (B) school in transparency and dynamics.

[The new erato]

I bought a Hegel H200 2 x 200 W integrated amp for my nr 2 system (in the living room) to substitute some older gear (Nakamichi power and a basic C-J preamp) that was getting very long in the tooth (the C-J in desperate need of tube replacements and the Naka with drying out condensers) and am very pleased with the results. I play CDs/SACDs from a Sony S9000 ES player



to Vienna Beethoven speakers:



The Sony also delivers DVD signals to an 60 inch Samsung smart TV which I just now connected up to the sound system. The TV delivers sound via a Electrocompaniet DAC to the Hegel. I also have a cheap Philips Blue Ray.

A definitive upgrade to the TV sound and now also very pleasant music listening in the living room. No need to play all those discs alone in my HiFi cave in the cellar any more.

[Todd]

I started doing some tube rolling with my Woo Audio WA6-SE, my first foray into such activity.  First up, I swapped the rectifier tube, going from the stock 5AR4 to a fancy, current production 274B, and sure enough, everything seemed to improve a bit – tighter bass was the biggest change.  Was it worth the steep price using the standard 6DE7 driver tubes?  Maybe.  I also opted for an expensive pair of NOS 6EM7 driver tubes, complete with some sweet 8 to 9 pin adapters that I can use with other tubes, and I have to say that this tube was a big old miss, at least with Beyer T1s.  The upper midrange is way too hot, and while that presents an illusion of greater detail, it also causes severe listening fatigue very quickly.  The tubes might be a better fit for Senns. 

Not content to leave things there, and also wanting a backup pair of driver tubes, I hit a couple tube shops online, and I found a bonanza of driver tubes for $6-$8 each, and even some rectifiers for as low as $20.  I went for some different types of driver tubes as well, including the 6DR7, which offers more bass than the 6DE7, but it also has too much gain, reducing how finely I can adjust volume.  (They should work better with less sensitive cans.)  But the 6FD7, well, that's just about the perfect tube for my tastes and gear, especially when paired with the 274B.  It offers all the detail of the 6DE7, but sounds more relaxed, though not necessarily warmer.  The tube does generate some very low level hum – far less than analog hiss or even random quiet noises that I can hear when using my open headphones, but it's there.  I'll probably try another make of tubes to see if that addresses the issue (my current pair is Zenith; I want some RCA), but even if it does not, I can never hear the hum when music is playing, or even when there is audience noise in live recordings, so I suppose I can suffer. 

Since the driver tubes I can use were all originally used in televisions, there are tons of made in the USA NOS tubes available for peanuts.  Yes, changing the tubes is basically the equivalent of twiddling with tone control knobs, but hey, it's fun, and it colors the sound differently with each combination, so I can twiddle whenever I get bored.

[Ken B]

I'm thinking of magnepan mmg speakers. Anyone have an opinion? I have a Technics amp, 600w, which should be enough, but I read they are hard to drive.

[bigshot]

I hear they're great for most of the spectrum but weak in low bass. You might want to pair them with a subwoofer. They also require a big room because they have to be freestanding in the open, not up against the wall.

[Jay F]

I'm thinking of magnepan mmg speakers. Anyone have an opinion? I have a Technics amp, 600w, which should be enough, but I read they are hard to drive.

I hear they're great for most of the spectrum but weak in low bass. You might want to pair them with a subwoofer. They also require a big room because they have to be freestanding in the open, not up against the wall.

I had a pair of the SMGa speakers that precede the MMG, and my favorite thing about them was the way they looked. I had them hooked up to a 65 wpc Kyocera receiver, which is what was recommended by the audio dealer. I didn't know from audiophilia then. I thought they sounded fine, but I found myself getting up to adjust their positioning way too often. They're light, though, so it's not work so much as a small annoyance. Oh, and what bigshot says about needing room is true. You don't want them near your walls. Also, I'm not a great fan of bass, so if it was missing, I wouldn't've been bothered by it.

[Ken B]

Thanks for the MMG feedback. Space is a problem for sure. I might need to keep looking.

[Fëanor]

Thanks for the MMG feedback. Space is a problem for sure. I might need to keep looking.

To join the chorus, I too had Magneplanar MMG which I used for several years; currently I used Magneplanar MG 1.6QR's.  They are, with a few qualifications, excellent speakers and outstanding value for the money.  Some relevant points about the MMG's ...

• They must be place at least 3 ft (1 meter) for the wall behind due to their dipole design.  Personally, recognizing this qualificaton, I haven't placement problems or the felt the need to move them around a lot.  In my opinion it is best "aim" the speakers directly at one's listening position because the highest frequencies have limited dispersion due to the width of their high-frequency, quasi-ribbon drivers.
• They require an amp rated for 4 ohms; other than that, they are not hard to drive
• The power they require depends on how loud you listen, the size of your room, and the room furnishings.  Generally speaking they probably need 60+ watts per channel into 4 ohms
• Their bass is as deep or deeper than typical, 2-way, stand-mount speakers, however their bass output (ability to play loud ) is limited, thus a subwoofer is preferable both for lowest frequencies and for higher volume
• With a woofer, it is ideal to limit MMG's to frequencies to those above 80 Hz, letting the subwoofer carry all the lower sound.  This strategy requires a high-pass filter to limit the sound to the MMG's as well as the standard, low-pass filter to limit the subwoofer frequencies

[jut1972]

Erato - that sounds a gorgeous system...

Mine is much lowlier... it's an Arcam A85 amp with a Arcam CD72 and a Squeezebox Touch providing the sources.  Monitor Audio RX6 are my main speakers.
I've a Denon AVR2311 amp for surround sound duties going into more monitor audios and a REL sub.  PS3 does the blu-ray duties.

Headphones for home use are Sennheiser 650s, with some Goldring noise cancellers driven with a FIIO E18 Headphone Amp / DAC for mobile listening from a Galaxy Note 2

Also got another squeezebox touch, Duet and a squeezebox radio floating around...

[Jay F]

Does anyone have any of the speakers in B&W/Bowers & Wilkins' CM line?

I want a new pair of small speakers to go on either side of my bed, and the CM1 looks just right.

http://www.bowers-wilkins.com/Speakers/Home_Audio/CM_Series/Products.html

[Octave]

I am on the hunt for a good portable speaker/speakers for use mainly at work.  I would definitely prefer something under $100, and under ~$50 if the sound is remarkably good for the price.
Bluetooth and/or an Ipod dock might be nice, but they are not important.  A 3.5mm audio-in is important (perhaps I am the last Discman user on earth).  Effective stereo separation (instead of mandatory mono) is probably essential.  A single unit (instead of two separate speakers connected by a cable) would definitely be more convenient.

This year-old post by NJ Joe might be along the lines of what I'm looking for, though something even more portable would be attractive, as long as the sound is pretty good for the size and price.  I wouldn't usually need to tote the thing in a book-bag or bike basket. 

Picked this up today to put on the floor behind my desk at work.  Logitech S715i.  Portable, remote included, and excellent sound for the money.

[Brian]

Does anyone have any of the speakers in B&W/Bowers & Wilkins' CM line?

I want a new pair of small speakers to go on either side of my bed, and the CM1 looks just right.

If it's going on either side of the bed, an alarm clock feature is necessary. Program a portable hard drive to play "Also Sprach Zarathustra" at 90% volume every morning at 6:30 a.m.

[petrarch]

Thanks for the MMG feedback. Space is a problem for sure. I might need to keep looking.

Planar speakers also bring to the fore the importance of the room and its acoustics. Construction materials, size, furnishings all become significant. But with some care, patience and dedication, planar speakers can make the listening experience truly outstanding.

[DavidW]

Since I just use 2.1 I can see the benefits of using a stereo amp instead of a receiver... except my receiver has multiple hdmi inputs which is what I really need.  Do any amps have hdmi inputs?

[Daverz]

Do any amps have hdmi inputs?

The NAD C 390DD Direct Digital Powered DAC Amplifier has an HDMI option. 

http://nadelectronics.com/products/hifi-mdc-modules/DD-HDM-1-HDMI-Module

Definitely not a typical amplifier.

...

I just ordered this pretty thing to use with my Squeezebox Touch:



Can act as a digital preamp, and can do up to DSD128, though I don't know if that will ever be more than a fad.



 

[Ken B]

Techie question. My amp (technics sa ax6) is rated to power two sets of speakers at 6 to 8 amps. So that's parallel, and if I had two sets at 6 that would be like driving one at 3 (give or take). Is that right?
Still thinking of the 4 ohm magnepans.

[Fëanor]

Techie question. My amp (technics sa ax6) is rated to power two sets of speakers at 6 to 8 amps. So that's parallel, and if I had two sets at 6 that would be like driving one at 3 (give or take). Is that right?
Still thinking of the 4 ohm magnepans.

Yes, that is, it is correct that two speakers, each rated at X ohms, when connected in parallel will look like X/2 ohms to your amplifier.

So if your Technics is indeed rated for two pairs of 6 ohm speakers it will handle 4 ohm Magneplanars with no problem -- BUT I'm suspicious that a 6 ohm rating implies that that is for a single pair of speakers, NOT two pairs -- check your manual carefully.