But it can't. Every single "piano-roll" recording I've heard takes the edge out the performance with rounded contours and softer attacks. When the original recording is in wretched sound, the "rolls" can be an advantage. However, Gould "55" does not have wretched sound. This latest reproduction doesn't even retain Gould's humming ways.
If you mean to say that those extracurricular noise (and hummings) are part of the charm, I agree. But when it comes to musical performance itself, stripped of all those extra tags, Zenph studios made something that is very remarkable IMO.
Those historical performances are always remastered anyhow. Most of us have not even heard the actual recordings, but versions of them which have been digitally enhanced to improve audibility. Between an original slice-tape recording and a digitally remastered versions most of us already go for the latter. When you think about it, the timbre in the remastered CDs does not reflect the actual frequency range anyway. What we have here is just taking it a bit (ok, a bit more than a bit) further.
AFAIK, all musical information in the Zenph recordings including the attack, delay, sustain &release are left untouched. We are talking about microscopic note-for-note information, down to milliseconds and hundreds of levels of dynamics.
What it all comes down to is the piano tone. Now, Cortot's pianos are not produced anymore so we don't have much of a choice there. They probably go for a tone that is closest to the original (or perhaps even sample the old piano sounds to arrive at someting that is very similar).
In the end, when I sit down to listen to these two performances, I find them equally great.
[mp3=200,20,0,center]http://zenph.com/audio/Cortot-Chopin-Gmajor-1926.mp3[/mp3]
[mp3=200,20,0,center]http://zenph.com/audio/Zenph-Chopin-Gmajor-2005.mp3[/mp3]