You are quite correct, of course. I also believe that it is a much more meaningful book when it is heard as opposed to read. Some of the Joyceans in my country believe that if one is reading it one should read it aloud to oneself.
I think they are probably right. In addition to this RTE version, I also sampled the Naxos audiobook, read by Jim Norton. He does a really good job with it, but it's still only one voice. I think it would be wearying to listen to one voice for 27 hours. Still, I'm glad he's available for comparison.
Speaking of Ulysses, I have almost finished it.
I think the key to enjoying it is not to worry about the whole mess of allusions, references, minutiae and so forth, but rather to let the style and characterization take control of your mind. That said, it's also helpful to be familiar with
Dubliners and
A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man, because many of the characters in
Ulysses make their first appearances in those books.